2215 hrs 2/09/11

So, this is the deal--- it was a daunting day of walking and my feet are quite pooped and legs are swollen!

Guillermo and I walked over 31 Km (that equates to over 19 miles) today, up hills and down hills, through villiages and fields, and over an honest to goodness  Roman Empire-built road.  He was trying to talk me into walking another 6 miles (10K), and I, stubborn enough to refrain from "giving up" to my foot/leg pain, said I'd keep going.  We'll thank goodness Guillermo was also tired when we hit Lorca, so he called ahead to a private Albergue for us to stay in. This one's really more like a hotel, but there's 4 bunk beds in one room and only one bathroom. The good thing is that its "winter" pilgrim season and we're the only two here!

Last night, after posting my blog I got a remarkable lesson in taking care of my feet-- it turns out that Maribel from Cizur is the one that gave Guillermo the info on the maxipads for shoe inserts.  Aside from that, Maribel drained and treated my blisters and showed me some really great shoe tying secrets for long-distance hiking.

As a great finish to a long and tiring day, Guillermo and I did some more walking down to Jacques Super Mercado (supermarket not even the size of a bathroom in a Wal-mart). Once we arrived, the door was locked. I, being the American, would have just walked away, but, Guillermo, being the Spaniard, rang the doorbell (who'da thunk?). We'll two very cute little old Bascos came to the door and bowed to every pasta, vino, and fresh herbs-from-their-garden need that Guillermo had the language skills to ask for-- all for 4,50 Euro (that's like 7 bucks in the US-- OMG!).  We had a great pasta meal and a whole bottle if Spanish wine from Navarre (Pamplona area) and good conversation (as best as two with different languages can have with each other).

Please, feel free to make comments on my blog, as well as Facebook.

Off to Los Arcos tomorrow.

Photo:  the highest point if my travels today (you know you've climbed a high mountain when you're standing where they put wind generators).

2145 hrs 2/8/11

I'm staying in Cizur Minor (Zizur is the Basque name) about 1.5 miles west of Pamplona at the Pilgrim's Albergue. This is by far the nicest Albergue yet, not to mention the Albergue caretaker- Maribel, speaks English (yeah!!!).

The walk went faster today because the terrain was much more flat or downhill at times. The downhill, as I've know for ages since my times running Robie Creek, is not necessarily FUN. But, the walk was less strenuous because of it.

After checking into the Albergue and throwing our miniscule amount of dirty clothing in the wash, we caught the bus back into downtown Pamplona where we breezed through just hours before. With only my flip-flops to wear (due to blisters and socks in the wash), I  walked through the antiquated and busy section of Pamplona-  up and down the Plaza de Torro where the July San Fermin festival sends hundreds of bulls through city, ate Spanish cuisine (including sardines) at a great bar on the Bull's route, got the private backroom tour of a Gothic 14th century church called San Saturnino because Guillermo chatted up the Priest, and then spent the next 1-1/2hrs trying to find the correct bus to get back to the Albergue for another failed attempt at a Skype call with my husband. (Something about Guillermo that I've decifered through my keen sense and wonderful e-translation tool is that he is a "marketeer" for "antiquities" relating to biblical times- so that's how he got us into the backroom tour at the medieval church! Cool, huh?)

- photos are of the arena where the bulls enter after "running", me at the medieval drawbridge that is still the foot entry into Pamplona, and one course of our Spanish meal made up of olive oil & sardines and carne asade with roasted peppers and red wine.

Walking to Lorca, Spain tomorrow.

2015 2/7/11

I think the Camino is already working me over. Its been a couple of really strenuous days of physical and emotional stress. The walking has resulted in sore muscles, tired feet, and some blisters to die for! As for the emotional piece, well that's something of which I'm trying to take deep breaths and keep moving forward. I miss my husband, my dogs, my home and Goldy's on weekends! Being on the Camino has made those things incredibly evident in even such a short time. It has also brought to light how important our loved ones are as well as the lives we have with them. You see things like that so clearly when your walking 20 miles a day, with little basic words said (because they can't understand me anyway, vice versa), and the Skype call you looked so forward to with your husband didn't work out.

I walked with Guillermo today, and probably will for the next several days because we seem to be on the same timeline to Santiago. His Spanish is a Godsend to help basic needs along at the store and for directions, the problem is that he and I have such a difficult time conversing in any lengthy manner. But, I'm learning several Spanish words from him and how to use menstrual pads as shoe inserts for comfort-- who'da thought of that? I've attached a photo of he and I on our Camino as well as at our very nicely put together Pilgrim dinner.

2310 hrs 2/6/11

The day was long to say the least. The trek from SJPdP to Roncesvalle is said to be the hardest of the walking. There were several places that were like strolling and others that were overwhelming. I say this with the emphasis on the latter, and mind you, I'm a tough girl! My last 3 miles were slow moving with lots of stops and counting steps in order to keep moving forward. I arrived to my destination 9 hours after beginning with breaks and lunch. I saw no one else on the trail with me, but it was beautiful and thought provoking.

A man named Guillermo from an island called Mallora, south of Spain, checked into the refugio (pictured bldg.) after I did today. He speaks Spanish only- that's a surprise! But we've gotten along really well. He has been traveling already for 21 days and has gone through the snow and very cold conditions. I was really lucky today over the Great Pyrenees that I only saw a smattering toward the very end.

I have revamped some of my stops in some towns due to some Albergues being closed during this time of year. But plan on being in Santiago on 3/7/11.

I will head out around 0800 again tomorrow for Larrasoana. 27km mostly downhill.

1145 Hrs 2/6/11

I started this morning at 0800 hrs instead of 0700 because Madame Jeanine would not allow me to leave since le Sun had not come through the fog yet. Almost right at 0800 it was like the fog lifted only enough to clear the path I would be taking and give me direction so as not to let the outside distractions convince me of doing something other than walking.

I am now stopped to have some fruit, crackers, and tea that Jeanine made for me at this beautiful secret spot just off the main road that I'm sure only the walkers know. I have 11.5km and still quite a climb ahead to Roncesvalle for the night.

0645 hours

I just got packed up again and ready to start my first day on the trail. I'm a bit jittery-don't know if it's nerves or that I just need to eat some breakfast. Either way, I'm on the move after eating some yogurt, fruit, and left over butter cookies from a vending machine in Paris.


Go Beyond!

Arrival to St. Jean Pied de Port

Arrived in St. Jean Pied de Port and walked the old stone road to #39 Pilgrim's Friends office to receive a warm welcome from two ladies who spoke only French to me in the way they speak with someone who understands their language.

I'll be taking the low road to Roncesvalles tomorrow due to bad weather on top of the old path. As far as the weather in SJPdP, it's as beautiful as the term "South of France" can be--magnificent.

The view of the Pyrenees mountains I'll be crossing in the morning is grand, to say the least. If you are walking up the old stone road to the SJPdP Refugio and turn around to view the mountain--it makes even a determined girl have second thoughts about being here. But, I am in a forward motion now- no turning back. Go Beyond!