2215 hrs 2/16/2011

It's past 2200 hrs here in Burgos, Castile y Leon (Spain) and I'm apparently a rebel because its supposed to be lights out at the Albergue de Peregrinos, but I'm writing my blog post.  It's okay, though, because I still hear whispers from the edgy French pilgrim couple next door and the set of five Spanish boys down the hall. 

Over the last couple of days the skies have given Franzcesca and I incredible fits of rain, wind, snow, cold, and mud at our feet.  We were fortunate enough to finish yesterday with only a 16.5K walk over steep hills and heavy rain in a wonderfully remodeled private albergue in Ages. We relaxed about our room- the only two in the whole place, from 1:30 pm to 7:00 pm when they prepared our pilgrim's menu in the dining room.  Aside from the blood sausage that was part of the first course, the entire meal was filling and so welcoming. The owner, a wonderful motherly type, was so gracious- she  even poured, and shared with us, an orange liqueur shot in a miniature pie-type crust---ummmm! I got two tries at it, because I took the first as a "shot" and apparently I was only supposed to drink a little bit and then put the entire liqueur filled crust in my mouth.

As for our walk today from Ages to beautiful Burgos...(see photos for a bit of the experience).  SNOW, RAIN, MUD, really badly marked directions into Gamonal (suburb of Burgos)-- but we made it to the Albergue in Burgos at 1:15 pm- that's 21K in less than 5 hours! The problem is that the Albergue didn't open until 2:00 pm.

After waiting for the albergue doors to open, hot showers and a fresh set of clothing, we set out into Burgos for mine and Franzcesca's last Camino night as walking partners. We visited a monastery and went along on a Spanish-only tour (where we remarked "that's interesting" to one another, alot because we only understood about every hundredth word). Then, we went to the Cathedral of Burgos-- an amazing tour of religion, spirituality, art, architecture and culture! We finished the night with a botella y vino and some tapas at a local bar and a great pre-intoxicated photo of us at our table.  The time spent with Franzcesca has been a friendship in the making!! So thankful.

As for the evening- Dustin and I finally got a Skype call to happen and it was great to see his face & hear his voice.  I also got to see and talk to Hailey, my little girl (dog for those of you who don't know)- she responded to the computer wondering where mom's voice was coming from. Boy, do I miss them all.

Good-bye and best wishes to my new friend, Franzcesca. She has about 31 days left on the Camino; all the way to Finnisterra (the end of the world).

2130 hrs Valentine's Day 2011

I have been walking with Franzcensca for two days now. We seem to have established a really great rapport with each other, as well as an equaled pacing partner. We like to walk about the same distances each day and can communicate with each other. Neither of us speak or "entiende" Spanish very well, but between the two of us, we navigate just fine.

Yesterday, we walked to (hmmm, let me think because I can't remember- all the days are running together now) Granon in Rioja (like a State). We arrived at the albergue which was located at the back, very dark and dreary entrance to a 500 year old church. We, first, read in Franzcesca's Camino guide book that we were going to have to sleep on the floor at this albergue, so half way up the dreary stairway we decided to walk around the village a bit more hoping there would be a private albergue, etc. The only other one we found wasn't gonna work because it cost 55 Euros (ridiculous). So, we made our way back toward the "creepy" albergue after bravely asking and receiving Spanish directions.  On our re-approach, Tom, one of the two hosts at the Albergue approached us and immediately spoke English, asking us where we were headed. He led us to the Albergue, explaining that it is run by volunteers and that he and one other volunteer are transitioning right now, so there are two of them to two of us.  He led us into, absolutely hands down, the best albergue on the Camino!!

They had a fireplace with a fire burning, a welcoming Idaho cabin feel, they made a wonderful dinner and breakfast, too-- as well as both hosts were from Germany, but also spoke English! How cool is that because they got to converse with Franzcesca in German and everybody spoke English with me.  The albergue had us sleeping on mats that were on the floor, however, quite comfy.  Great Albergue- Granon!

As for today, lets just say we made it to Villafranca Montes de Oca. There were high headwinds, cold weather, and to top it off, the albergue in the town we wanted to stop in was closed.

Photos are of the wonderful Hosts at the Granon albergue, and the second is of some lambs that were just born, which I'm seeing around here alot.
I will be in Burgos on Wednesday.

Photos of a typical Camino albergue

2030 hrs 2/12/11

Today was my first day to walk alone since St. Jean. I walked 29K today. I stopped when I wanted to, turned the directions I wanted to, and said "Hola" to at least 100 people today.  I also talked to myself for a little bit-- ya know i can be a pretty smart gal?

Physically, my feet are sore and still nursing blisters. I arrived in Najera at about 3:30 pm and tried to locate a private albergue (because they seem to be nicer), but no luck. I am staying at the municipal Albergue De Peregrinos for which I paid 5 Euro for a bed, hot shower, full kitchen (less the food), and several other room mates. The good thing is that I arrived much earlier than most of the others, so I got my choice of beds. There are nine pilgrims here tonight, a sharp contrast to what I've been experiencing so far at the Albergues.

There is one other female here tonight- Francesca from Germany. She speaks English and is also doing the Camino solo. We talked about walking with each other tomorrow, until maybe Burgos, since she will be taking the Camino slower than I will have to due to time constraints. She is a medical student in her last year before her residency begins, so said she had the time to do the walk now.  But, other than time she, too, does not yet know why she was called here.

Francesca seemed puzzled when I asked if anyone had seemed concerned or discouraging regarding her doing the Camino on her own, as a woman. She said that is just not the case for her-- we decided that maybe it is the cultural differences in that Germany has gotten past the gender inequalities more so than the US. I don't know the answer, but the issue continues to come up through conversation, etc.

I am posting photos of some of the common signs, objects, and symbols that guide me along the way. Sometimes my daily trek feels a bit like a really long treasure hunt game where I am readily aware of evidence of a seashell, a Camino sign, or a rustic yellow arrow sloppily painted on a rock or curbing. These are the common symbols that guide the pilgrims through the countryside and cities and villiages.

At times, there are mementos, artwork, and memorials left on display by pilgrims who have passed before me. I've seen some amazing graffiti artwork in tunnels, some touching memorials of Pilgrims who've parished on the Camino, as well as unique items like shoes hanging as if they, themselves, have given up. Today, there was about 200 meters of crosses made out of sticks lying along the ground which were hung in the openings of the chain link fence. I'm sure they'll be many more interesting items to see as I go along.

As for the secret to weight loss that I promised in yesterday's blog-- I have not weighed myself, however in just one week I am quite certain I am at least one pant size smaller. Soooo-- eat cheese, breads, chocolate, lots of red Spanish vino, and walk at least 17 miles each day to get those results.  Good luck!

2030 hrs 2/11/2011

This morning, I bid farewell to Los Arcos after receiving a quick, hand-made wire sculpture of a backpacking pilgrim that one of the workers at Albergue de Austria makes and gives as a farewell to all who stay there. I hooked it to my caribeener on the front of my pack to point the way. It is truly a cool little gift.

I arrived at the traditional end of the Basque Country, in the city of Logrono, today at about 2:30 p.m. I had been getting the feeling that Guillermo was going to decide to stay in Logrono instead of walking the promised 41 K to Navarette like he said he was going to (because he knew I was staying here).  And, sure enough, we reached the city center and he said he was too tired to move on after only 28K today (I didn't buy it- and something was strange about this situation). So I proceeded to muster up as much Spanish in order to be assertive, and told him that I am solo and will be staying elsewhere tonight. Long story short, we parted ways at the city center and I checked into a Hotel instead of an Albergue.  Wow, didn't think I'd have to "break-up" with someone on this trip! (If you think there might be more to this story, well you're correct, and remind me tell you when I get back).

Really positive note: I got to talk with my husband tonight (morning for him) on the phone. Expensive, but mucho necessary for my, sometimes, loneliness over here.

I have to say I've gotten several comments and posts referring to my Camino to Santiago being like a big vacation. It is far from that. And, I do not have the words, yet and maybe never, to be able to express what it is or will be for me. Please, take a moment to either Google the journey or click on the link I've included to the right, for further information about the journey.   Ultreia! Go beyond!

Tomorrow's blog post will give you a description of albergues, what I typically see when I'm walking, and the secret to losing weight...

I have attached a photo of my dessert tonight that I ordered all by myself- en Espanol. And, a photo of my new mini-walking partner.

Love you all and truly, thank you for your comments and support...4 weeks, 640K to go until Santiago.

Photos of Donkey and Church where I was blessed in Los Arcos

2145 hrs 2/10/11

I am sleeping with three Spanish men!

Well, not exactly, but I thought I'd get your attention. I am staying in a Los Arcos albergue tonight and there happens to be two college-age guys from Pamplona who are walking with a donkey to Santiago (Donkey is carrying their packs). I got to pet the donkey, which for those who really know me, was so cool. As well, I got to hold and pet a little dog running through a Spanish village yesterday-- totally rewarding for me and reminds me of how much I miss my four-legged babies!

I advised Guillermo that I will be continuing the Camino, solo, as of tomorrow. He has continued to try to convince me otherwise tonight through promise of various sightseeing opportunities, but I just feel that I came here as a solo "peregrina" and I need to continue as a solo.  He has taught me a lot in terms culture and language, but I feel there is a bit too much "protection" occurring from him and not allowing me to navigate and experience the Camino for myself. So, most gracious adios goes out to Mr. Guillermo starting tomorrow. (Not to mention he is walking 41 km tomorrow-- no way!).

•••Special note:  I was blessed as a Camino Pilgrim by an honest-to-goodness Roman Catholic Priest tonight.  After leaving the local bar (like a cafe in US), Guillermo just had to open the doors of a medieval church here in Los Arcos, and lo and behold, there was a Thursday night Mass beginning. I walked in, took a pew, and commenced to take part in the entire mass. Afterward, Guillermo walked to the back chambers, introduced himself and told the Priest that we were Pilgrims to Santiago-- he spoke English to me and asked me to a separate area from the front of the church and then proceeded to bless myself and Guillermo for our travels.  It was wonderful!

Another 30K adventure tomorrow...