2000 hours, 2/28/11

I am in Arzua tonight at a private albergue called "Ultreia", which if you recall from earlier posts is an old Basque saying that was exclaimed to the passing medieval Pilgrims that means "Go Beyond". I was drawn to the albergue because of its name, but unfortunately, the name has been the only indication of being an over-achiever.  I was shocked with a cold-water shower that never warmed past lukewarm, so I stood there, naked, in the community shower room for several minutes waiting for the water to warm and then another several moments deciding if I was desperate enough to take a cold shower. Nope! Put my clothes back on and then I muddled through just-good-enough Spanish to let the Hosteleria know the water was not hot. She checked on it, apologized, but couldn't fix it. The good thing is that there is free WiFi here! 

I had a beautiful and short strolls yesterday and today, only banking 16 & 14 kilometers, respectively. The drawback of rolling into a town so early is that I am hitting the albergue at the times it may not be open.  But, I've been lucky to walk in just as the hosts are finishing cleaning, so they've let me in early.

Arzua is not a very interesting town; however, Melida, where I stayed yesterday, was neat! Melida has about 6900 population, so it's a sizeable town with lots of stores, a downtown open-air Sunday market, and its specialty seafood cuisine of "pulpo" which is boiled octopus doused with sea salt, paprika, and olive oil. Yummmm! I found the "Goldy's" of the octopus world, called Exequiel Pulperia. It is said that EP serves the best pulpo in Galicia. So, once I checked into the albergue, I headed to EP and what a great place! From the determined train of people lingering in a line for their 'raccion o pulpo' that trails out the front door to the open dining set up where you just find a seat on a bench and chat with others around while drinking your own bottle of 2 euro vino tinto and eating big chunks of freshly baked bread! Cool place.

I am 38K outside Santiago. Dragging my days out to my final destination is like watching grass grow at this point. I know, I know-- its the journey, not the destination!  But, I've got to say that even though my journey through all the different lands from Paris and across northern Spain has been pretty cool, along with my own personal journey having been at the very least, provoking-- I am ready to see the Santiago Cathedral spires that appear as if they are shooting out from the clouds and to attend the Pilgrim's mass the day after I complete my Camino to hear my name announced by the priest advising that I have now been absolved of my sins. I just might make that whole 38K trek tomorrow!  Guess you'll have to wait to find out...

Photos: Exequiel Pulperia line for octopus, and my yummy meal at EP.

1600 hrs, 02/26/11

I have arrived in Palais de Rei in Galicia (pronounced Ga-leeth-ee-a) and am staying at a Pension (like a cheap hotel).  This town is about 4000 population, so it is well equipped with a Supermercado (market), a Farmacia (pharmacy, basic toiletries), bars (alcohol/cafe) and plenty of habitacion (sleeping) options.  Unfortunately, when I arrived today, I found the Albergue to be closed until March.  That was okay with me as I have grown very tired of the dormitory type set up that is the main characteristic of albergue accomodations. 

Yesterday was my first walking day within Galicia.  I began at about 10:00 am from Sarria with the most beautiful 24K a person could wish for.  This region is very green, where mist fills the air, and the scent of villages remind the traveler that they are in a very poor, yet self-sustaining area of Spain.  This is by far my favorite region so far in Spain!  The people are very friendly, they all seem to have dogs (a big plus as far as I´m concerned), and there are villages every few kilometers which make the walking much more interesting.  A farmer invited me into his barn and let me pet the Torros today-- very cool.  Also, I watched an old Galician woman hand washing clothes in the community wash trough in the center of a village with her thick bar of detergent soap and her gentle perro (dog) laying nearby.

I only wanted to walk a short 15 kilometers yesterday and today, but what I´m finding in Galicia is that there may be albergues where there are NO other services.  So, if you didn´t pack something to eat for dinner, etc and do want to do or look at anything else other than the countryside for the next 18 hours-- you probably better walk to the next reasonably sized village!  Thats how I ended up in Portomarin last night at the Municipal Albergue with a family of four from Japan, the one and only American I´ve met in 550K of the Camino named Brandon who had only started in Sarria, two College girls from Germany (Yani & Natalie), a few other smatterings of people, AND----- Guillermo!  I could not believe it when he walked into the room and exclaimed something in Spanish with creepy puppy-dog eyes toward me and then kissed both of my cheeks.  Later, he asked me to go for a walk or if I wanted to go eat something-- I quickly refused, said Gracias, and returned to my Estrella Galicia beer I was sharing with Yani and Natalie from Germany.  He went on his way this morning, so hopefully I won´t see him again while I´m in Santiago.

Speaking of Santiago-- because I am now several kilometers ahead, again, it is looking like I will be in Santiago for six days before my flight back to the U.S (thrilled and not thrilled at the same time).  I plan on taking the next two days at approximately a 15K pace to stretch my time and give my legs more of a rest.  Its good I am staying in a Pension, so I can leave later in the morning than the required 8:00 am departure from Albergues, so that I do not arrive in these villages too early before albergues even open.  Remember-- in Spain everything is on a much different time schedule than we are used to in the U.S., such as breakfast MAYBE happens after 10:00 am, lunch is around 2:30 pm, stores and restaurants are closed between 3:00-8:00 pm, markets re-open at 5:00 pm and close late, restaurants re-open at 8:00 pm and serve dinner until about 11:00 pm.  If you want any food in the 3-8 pm range, you eat at the bars!

Note:  I have to tell you about the two young teen girls sitting next to me at the internet station in the bar (yes, kids come into the bars here in Spain).  We take WiFi and internet, in general, for granted in the U.S.!  These teens had to walk to the bar, pop their 2 Euros into the change slot for one hour's-worth of internet and what web page did they get onto???-- Facebook!!  Comical to me and what a small world!

I will be posting photos via my phone WiFi connection, so they may come across at a later time than this written posting.  This has happened before, and several people have written me confused as to why there are no photos attached, FYI.

PHOTOS:  Scenes of Galicia countryside, a real-life sheep and cattle herding, and the lady washing her clothes in the community laundry center.

2310 hrs 2/24/11

It felt odd waking up after 0700 this morning and then not stepping onto the Camino today.

I found myself feeling guilty for not walking today. Not "guilty" for any other reason but that I have come to feel like the Camino is my only consistent friend in Spain. It felt like I was leaving my trusted companion behind. Once I boarded the train for Sarria this afternoon, I watched out the window at the Spanish landscape to try to catch a glimpse of where the Camino might appear along the route. I never saw any yellow arrows, signs, or seashells.

At about 2100 hrs I rolled into Sarria on the train. I was the only one to get off the train here. Sarria is in the Spanish province of Galicia. The train brought me through the mountains of Leon that separate the dry, flat plateau of Castilla y Leon from the green and lush hills of the Celtic-influenced Galicia. Galicia is alot like the Pacific Northwest U.S. with its wetness, hills, greenery, and seafood specialties. In fact, I had the absolute best Salmon tonight at dinner that I have ever eaten! Thank you Restaurante Roma!

I will return to the Camino tomorrow. I am roughly 120K outside of Santiago. Due to the reduced distance, I will be able to limit my daily distances to between 13-18K each day and be to Santiago on 3/4/11 in hopes my swelling shin splints don't turn into stress fractures and the blisters will heal. This will also allow for me to be able to attend the pilgrim's mass at noon on 3/5/11 where my name, country, and city of Camino origin will be announced as having completed the journey. I will use my other free day to take a bus to Finisterra to witness the area once believed to be the location of the "end of the world".

Photos are of Leon near Calle Anche by the Cathedral Plaza.

2030 Hrs, 2/23/11

Sitting here in a bar in Leon, Castilla y Leon reflecting on 500 Km of the Camino is challenging. First, I feel like I need to try to define the Camino. But, even that is like trying to explain LIFE in a few short words; it just can't be done.

Physically, the Camino, is an ever-changing platform. Sometimes it's a dirt road, sometimes it's asphalt, other times it takes you through two dilapidated Spanish buildings that once was someone's village home. It's rocky sometimes. It's windy sometimes. Cold. Sunny. Raining. Trees, fields, mud- you name it.

Spiritually, the Camino, is a constant correlation to life. It is ever-changing; it encompasses days in which you feel you have so much energy and drive that you can go forever, other days you are lucky to just walk half of the day without pain somewhere in your mind or body.

There is a different and similar reason why most everyone is here- they are looking for something in themselves- reasons, answers, or God. I don't know if any of these answers really ever come to anyone who takes on the task of the Camino. I have met several Camino goers who have multiple treks to their name; some have found what they believe to be answers and others are still searching- for what, I don't believe they even know.

For me, I'm not here to "find myself"; I already know who I am- I'm here to accept who I am. Odd enough, in speaking with others, my reason seems to be a unique motive for being here. But, truly, there is no self-help book in the world that can help you or your relationships (past, present, or future) unless you are first accepting of who you are, to the core.

I will climb aboard a train tomorrow night to take about 180 K off the total distance of the St Jean to Santiago trek due to realizing I could not do it ALL in the time and pace that I had originally set for myself, but, you know what-- I'm okay with that. Perfection is not all it is cracked up to be!

Photo: My walking shadow.

1830 hrs 02/21/2011

My blog posts have slowed due to the lack of WiFi availability and the costs to use mobile data through my phone is becoming outrageous with still another two weeks left in Spain.

I am in Bercianos del Camino tonight at a Hostel as all the albergues are closed between here and another 20K.  I have already walked 24K today from Terridillos with shin splints that came on a few days ago and have gotten worse, since.  A blister on my left heel area has returned, is bruised and pretty painful.  I just couldn´t walk another 20K, so I splurged 25 Euro on a private Habitacion (room) at the Hostel Rivero.

I have decided to walk to Leon by Wednesday, 2/23/11 and stay there for two nights in order to let my legs, feet, and mind rest.  I am going to take a train from Leon to Sarria to make up for some KMs and time.  Sarria is 100K from Santiago; the minimum distance to walk for the Compostela.  The problem I am running into is injury mixed with having to do at least 30K per day.  If I keep going at this pace and not allow my body to rest, well its just not doing good things to my feet and legs right now. 

I am realizing that The Camino is not necessarily about walking every single kilometer; it is about doing the Camino the way the Camino wants you to do it (I know that sounds weird, but hopefully someday I can explain it).

I have been here 19 days, now.  I am waning, definitely! 

As for the last few day´s experiences-- After introducing Etsuko, she ¨followed¨ me to the next two villiages.  Her pace is quite a bit slower than mine, so I walked ahead- after all, we weren´t really dedicated walking partners.  She knew which destinations I was headed to, so I believe she pushed herself the 30K when her mind and body should really just be doing no more than 20K each day.  The first day that Etsuko followed me, I arrived at around 2:30 pm, took my shower and had sat down for a snack.  At 4:00 pm, Etsuko came falling in through the door, looking like she was completely exhausted and could no longer stand upright.  After taking her shower and settling in, she happening to mention that she had not even checked in with the Albergue owners (the Bar), but that she had just gone around town peeking through old keyholes in the big wooden gates that enclose yards in Spain until she saw ¨Brandy´s clothes¨ hanging from the clothesline!

The next day´s walk, after strolling 32K with a walking Camino bicyclist from Germany named Axel and a three-time Camino supersticion-ridden Spaniard named Jose from Vallencia, I arrived at my destination- Terridillos.  But, I stopped several kilometers before Terridillos and enjoyed two cafe con leches at a bar with the guys in order to give some time for Etsuko to catch up-- but, she never arrived.  We continued for another 8K to Terridillos.  After checking into the albergue, I settled in and was literally getting ready to step into the shower when the Hosteleria came running into the bathroom, frantically yelling ¨Brandy, Brandy, come, come!¨ I just knew it was something to do with Etsuko- sure enough, I went running outside wearing nothing but my long johns and saw a Guardia Civil car (like the National Police) parked in front of the Albergue.  I thought to myself- NO, What in the hell could a little girl from Tokyo do to get arrested in Spain???  As it turns out, she was walking along at her pace, leaned down to pick something up and tripped over a very short embankement and fell just as the Guardia Civil officers were driving by.  They stopped for her, she began crying, and saying she had to be with her friend and ¨sister¨, Brandy.  So, they apparently drove through the next two villages looking for ¨Brandy¨ at an albergue.  Wow, I have no idea how I became this young lady´s ¨sister¨ and ¨protector¨!  After checking her over for injuries and getting her set up for the next several days on the trail (via her map), Etsuko and I discussed that she needs to do the Camino her way, not mine.  That means she must go slower and less kilometers in the day.  We also discussed lightening her backpack load as she had brought way too much for such a small framed person. 

I gave Etsuko a pep talk this morning.  She cried.  We hugged.  And, I set out on the Camino, while she rested her sore legs & feet for another half-day.  She is wonderfully naive and sweet- no way to forget her!  Etsuko will email me when she gets back to Tokyo as to how her Camino went. 

Etsuko called me her Angel last night- the conversation managed to eek out that maybe my calling to the Camino was by Saint Michael.  Coincidence:  For those of you who don´t know- I wear a St. Michael pendant with ¨Strength, Bravery, Protection, Love¨ around my neck.  St. Michael is the patron saint of Police Officers and other ¨protectors¨.  I don´t know...

352 K to go till Santiago!

Photos: Me and Santiago.  Me, Jose, and Etsuko at dinner.