1830 hrs 02/21/2011

My blog posts have slowed due to the lack of WiFi availability and the costs to use mobile data through my phone is becoming outrageous with still another two weeks left in Spain.

I am in Bercianos del Camino tonight at a Hostel as all the albergues are closed between here and another 20K.  I have already walked 24K today from Terridillos with shin splints that came on a few days ago and have gotten worse, since.  A blister on my left heel area has returned, is bruised and pretty painful.  I just couldn´t walk another 20K, so I splurged 25 Euro on a private Habitacion (room) at the Hostel Rivero.

I have decided to walk to Leon by Wednesday, 2/23/11 and stay there for two nights in order to let my legs, feet, and mind rest.  I am going to take a train from Leon to Sarria to make up for some KMs and time.  Sarria is 100K from Santiago; the minimum distance to walk for the Compostela.  The problem I am running into is injury mixed with having to do at least 30K per day.  If I keep going at this pace and not allow my body to rest, well its just not doing good things to my feet and legs right now. 

I am realizing that The Camino is not necessarily about walking every single kilometer; it is about doing the Camino the way the Camino wants you to do it (I know that sounds weird, but hopefully someday I can explain it).

I have been here 19 days, now.  I am waning, definitely! 

As for the last few day´s experiences-- After introducing Etsuko, she ¨followed¨ me to the next two villiages.  Her pace is quite a bit slower than mine, so I walked ahead- after all, we weren´t really dedicated walking partners.  She knew which destinations I was headed to, so I believe she pushed herself the 30K when her mind and body should really just be doing no more than 20K each day.  The first day that Etsuko followed me, I arrived at around 2:30 pm, took my shower and had sat down for a snack.  At 4:00 pm, Etsuko came falling in through the door, looking like she was completely exhausted and could no longer stand upright.  After taking her shower and settling in, she happening to mention that she had not even checked in with the Albergue owners (the Bar), but that she had just gone around town peeking through old keyholes in the big wooden gates that enclose yards in Spain until she saw ¨Brandy´s clothes¨ hanging from the clothesline!

The next day´s walk, after strolling 32K with a walking Camino bicyclist from Germany named Axel and a three-time Camino supersticion-ridden Spaniard named Jose from Vallencia, I arrived at my destination- Terridillos.  But, I stopped several kilometers before Terridillos and enjoyed two cafe con leches at a bar with the guys in order to give some time for Etsuko to catch up-- but, she never arrived.  We continued for another 8K to Terridillos.  After checking into the albergue, I settled in and was literally getting ready to step into the shower when the Hosteleria came running into the bathroom, frantically yelling ¨Brandy, Brandy, come, come!¨ I just knew it was something to do with Etsuko- sure enough, I went running outside wearing nothing but my long johns and saw a Guardia Civil car (like the National Police) parked in front of the Albergue.  I thought to myself- NO, What in the hell could a little girl from Tokyo do to get arrested in Spain???  As it turns out, she was walking along at her pace, leaned down to pick something up and tripped over a very short embankement and fell just as the Guardia Civil officers were driving by.  They stopped for her, she began crying, and saying she had to be with her friend and ¨sister¨, Brandy.  So, they apparently drove through the next two villages looking for ¨Brandy¨ at an albergue.  Wow, I have no idea how I became this young lady´s ¨sister¨ and ¨protector¨!  After checking her over for injuries and getting her set up for the next several days on the trail (via her map), Etsuko and I discussed that she needs to do the Camino her way, not mine.  That means she must go slower and less kilometers in the day.  We also discussed lightening her backpack load as she had brought way too much for such a small framed person. 

I gave Etsuko a pep talk this morning.  She cried.  We hugged.  And, I set out on the Camino, while she rested her sore legs & feet for another half-day.  She is wonderfully naive and sweet- no way to forget her!  Etsuko will email me when she gets back to Tokyo as to how her Camino went. 

Etsuko called me her Angel last night- the conversation managed to eek out that maybe my calling to the Camino was by Saint Michael.  Coincidence:  For those of you who don´t know- I wear a St. Michael pendant with ¨Strength, Bravery, Protection, Love¨ around my neck.  St. Michael is the patron saint of Police Officers and other ¨protectors¨.  I don´t know...

352 K to go till Santiago!

Photos: Me and Santiago.  Me, Jose, and Etsuko at dinner.