2000 hours, 2/28/11

I am in Arzua tonight at a private albergue called "Ultreia", which if you recall from earlier posts is an old Basque saying that was exclaimed to the passing medieval Pilgrims that means "Go Beyond". I was drawn to the albergue because of its name, but unfortunately, the name has been the only indication of being an over-achiever.  I was shocked with a cold-water shower that never warmed past lukewarm, so I stood there, naked, in the community shower room for several minutes waiting for the water to warm and then another several moments deciding if I was desperate enough to take a cold shower. Nope! Put my clothes back on and then I muddled through just-good-enough Spanish to let the Hosteleria know the water was not hot. She checked on it, apologized, but couldn't fix it. The good thing is that there is free WiFi here! 

I had a beautiful and short strolls yesterday and today, only banking 16 & 14 kilometers, respectively. The drawback of rolling into a town so early is that I am hitting the albergue at the times it may not be open.  But, I've been lucky to walk in just as the hosts are finishing cleaning, so they've let me in early.

Arzua is not a very interesting town; however, Melida, where I stayed yesterday, was neat! Melida has about 6900 population, so it's a sizeable town with lots of stores, a downtown open-air Sunday market, and its specialty seafood cuisine of "pulpo" which is boiled octopus doused with sea salt, paprika, and olive oil. Yummmm! I found the "Goldy's" of the octopus world, called Exequiel Pulperia. It is said that EP serves the best pulpo in Galicia. So, once I checked into the albergue, I headed to EP and what a great place! From the determined train of people lingering in a line for their 'raccion o pulpo' that trails out the front door to the open dining set up where you just find a seat on a bench and chat with others around while drinking your own bottle of 2 euro vino tinto and eating big chunks of freshly baked bread! Cool place.

I am 38K outside Santiago. Dragging my days out to my final destination is like watching grass grow at this point. I know, I know-- its the journey, not the destination!  But, I've got to say that even though my journey through all the different lands from Paris and across northern Spain has been pretty cool, along with my own personal journey having been at the very least, provoking-- I am ready to see the Santiago Cathedral spires that appear as if they are shooting out from the clouds and to attend the Pilgrim's mass the day after I complete my Camino to hear my name announced by the priest advising that I have now been absolved of my sins. I just might make that whole 38K trek tomorrow!  Guess you'll have to wait to find out...

Photos: Exequiel Pulperia line for octopus, and my yummy meal at EP.

1600 hrs, 02/26/11

I have arrived in Palais de Rei in Galicia (pronounced Ga-leeth-ee-a) and am staying at a Pension (like a cheap hotel).  This town is about 4000 population, so it is well equipped with a Supermercado (market), a Farmacia (pharmacy, basic toiletries), bars (alcohol/cafe) and plenty of habitacion (sleeping) options.  Unfortunately, when I arrived today, I found the Albergue to be closed until March.  That was okay with me as I have grown very tired of the dormitory type set up that is the main characteristic of albergue accomodations. 

Yesterday was my first walking day within Galicia.  I began at about 10:00 am from Sarria with the most beautiful 24K a person could wish for.  This region is very green, where mist fills the air, and the scent of villages remind the traveler that they are in a very poor, yet self-sustaining area of Spain.  This is by far my favorite region so far in Spain!  The people are very friendly, they all seem to have dogs (a big plus as far as I´m concerned), and there are villages every few kilometers which make the walking much more interesting.  A farmer invited me into his barn and let me pet the Torros today-- very cool.  Also, I watched an old Galician woman hand washing clothes in the community wash trough in the center of a village with her thick bar of detergent soap and her gentle perro (dog) laying nearby.

I only wanted to walk a short 15 kilometers yesterday and today, but what I´m finding in Galicia is that there may be albergues where there are NO other services.  So, if you didn´t pack something to eat for dinner, etc and do want to do or look at anything else other than the countryside for the next 18 hours-- you probably better walk to the next reasonably sized village!  Thats how I ended up in Portomarin last night at the Municipal Albergue with a family of four from Japan, the one and only American I´ve met in 550K of the Camino named Brandon who had only started in Sarria, two College girls from Germany (Yani & Natalie), a few other smatterings of people, AND----- Guillermo!  I could not believe it when he walked into the room and exclaimed something in Spanish with creepy puppy-dog eyes toward me and then kissed both of my cheeks.  Later, he asked me to go for a walk or if I wanted to go eat something-- I quickly refused, said Gracias, and returned to my Estrella Galicia beer I was sharing with Yani and Natalie from Germany.  He went on his way this morning, so hopefully I won´t see him again while I´m in Santiago.

Speaking of Santiago-- because I am now several kilometers ahead, again, it is looking like I will be in Santiago for six days before my flight back to the U.S (thrilled and not thrilled at the same time).  I plan on taking the next two days at approximately a 15K pace to stretch my time and give my legs more of a rest.  Its good I am staying in a Pension, so I can leave later in the morning than the required 8:00 am departure from Albergues, so that I do not arrive in these villages too early before albergues even open.  Remember-- in Spain everything is on a much different time schedule than we are used to in the U.S., such as breakfast MAYBE happens after 10:00 am, lunch is around 2:30 pm, stores and restaurants are closed between 3:00-8:00 pm, markets re-open at 5:00 pm and close late, restaurants re-open at 8:00 pm and serve dinner until about 11:00 pm.  If you want any food in the 3-8 pm range, you eat at the bars!

Note:  I have to tell you about the two young teen girls sitting next to me at the internet station in the bar (yes, kids come into the bars here in Spain).  We take WiFi and internet, in general, for granted in the U.S.!  These teens had to walk to the bar, pop their 2 Euros into the change slot for one hour's-worth of internet and what web page did they get onto???-- Facebook!!  Comical to me and what a small world!

I will be posting photos via my phone WiFi connection, so they may come across at a later time than this written posting.  This has happened before, and several people have written me confused as to why there are no photos attached, FYI.

PHOTOS:  Scenes of Galicia countryside, a real-life sheep and cattle herding, and the lady washing her clothes in the community laundry center.

2310 hrs 2/24/11

It felt odd waking up after 0700 this morning and then not stepping onto the Camino today.

I found myself feeling guilty for not walking today. Not "guilty" for any other reason but that I have come to feel like the Camino is my only consistent friend in Spain. It felt like I was leaving my trusted companion behind. Once I boarded the train for Sarria this afternoon, I watched out the window at the Spanish landscape to try to catch a glimpse of where the Camino might appear along the route. I never saw any yellow arrows, signs, or seashells.

At about 2100 hrs I rolled into Sarria on the train. I was the only one to get off the train here. Sarria is in the Spanish province of Galicia. The train brought me through the mountains of Leon that separate the dry, flat plateau of Castilla y Leon from the green and lush hills of the Celtic-influenced Galicia. Galicia is alot like the Pacific Northwest U.S. with its wetness, hills, greenery, and seafood specialties. In fact, I had the absolute best Salmon tonight at dinner that I have ever eaten! Thank you Restaurante Roma!

I will return to the Camino tomorrow. I am roughly 120K outside of Santiago. Due to the reduced distance, I will be able to limit my daily distances to between 13-18K each day and be to Santiago on 3/4/11 in hopes my swelling shin splints don't turn into stress fractures and the blisters will heal. This will also allow for me to be able to attend the pilgrim's mass at noon on 3/5/11 where my name, country, and city of Camino origin will be announced as having completed the journey. I will use my other free day to take a bus to Finisterra to witness the area once believed to be the location of the "end of the world".

Photos are of Leon near Calle Anche by the Cathedral Plaza.

2030 Hrs, 2/23/11

Sitting here in a bar in Leon, Castilla y Leon reflecting on 500 Km of the Camino is challenging. First, I feel like I need to try to define the Camino. But, even that is like trying to explain LIFE in a few short words; it just can't be done.

Physically, the Camino, is an ever-changing platform. Sometimes it's a dirt road, sometimes it's asphalt, other times it takes you through two dilapidated Spanish buildings that once was someone's village home. It's rocky sometimes. It's windy sometimes. Cold. Sunny. Raining. Trees, fields, mud- you name it.

Spiritually, the Camino, is a constant correlation to life. It is ever-changing; it encompasses days in which you feel you have so much energy and drive that you can go forever, other days you are lucky to just walk half of the day without pain somewhere in your mind or body.

There is a different and similar reason why most everyone is here- they are looking for something in themselves- reasons, answers, or God. I don't know if any of these answers really ever come to anyone who takes on the task of the Camino. I have met several Camino goers who have multiple treks to their name; some have found what they believe to be answers and others are still searching- for what, I don't believe they even know.

For me, I'm not here to "find myself"; I already know who I am- I'm here to accept who I am. Odd enough, in speaking with others, my reason seems to be a unique motive for being here. But, truly, there is no self-help book in the world that can help you or your relationships (past, present, or future) unless you are first accepting of who you are, to the core.

I will climb aboard a train tomorrow night to take about 180 K off the total distance of the St Jean to Santiago trek due to realizing I could not do it ALL in the time and pace that I had originally set for myself, but, you know what-- I'm okay with that. Perfection is not all it is cracked up to be!

Photo: My walking shadow.

1830 hrs 02/21/2011

My blog posts have slowed due to the lack of WiFi availability and the costs to use mobile data through my phone is becoming outrageous with still another two weeks left in Spain.

I am in Bercianos del Camino tonight at a Hostel as all the albergues are closed between here and another 20K.  I have already walked 24K today from Terridillos with shin splints that came on a few days ago and have gotten worse, since.  A blister on my left heel area has returned, is bruised and pretty painful.  I just couldn´t walk another 20K, so I splurged 25 Euro on a private Habitacion (room) at the Hostel Rivero.

I have decided to walk to Leon by Wednesday, 2/23/11 and stay there for two nights in order to let my legs, feet, and mind rest.  I am going to take a train from Leon to Sarria to make up for some KMs and time.  Sarria is 100K from Santiago; the minimum distance to walk for the Compostela.  The problem I am running into is injury mixed with having to do at least 30K per day.  If I keep going at this pace and not allow my body to rest, well its just not doing good things to my feet and legs right now. 

I am realizing that The Camino is not necessarily about walking every single kilometer; it is about doing the Camino the way the Camino wants you to do it (I know that sounds weird, but hopefully someday I can explain it).

I have been here 19 days, now.  I am waning, definitely! 

As for the last few day´s experiences-- After introducing Etsuko, she ¨followed¨ me to the next two villiages.  Her pace is quite a bit slower than mine, so I walked ahead- after all, we weren´t really dedicated walking partners.  She knew which destinations I was headed to, so I believe she pushed herself the 30K when her mind and body should really just be doing no more than 20K each day.  The first day that Etsuko followed me, I arrived at around 2:30 pm, took my shower and had sat down for a snack.  At 4:00 pm, Etsuko came falling in through the door, looking like she was completely exhausted and could no longer stand upright.  After taking her shower and settling in, she happening to mention that she had not even checked in with the Albergue owners (the Bar), but that she had just gone around town peeking through old keyholes in the big wooden gates that enclose yards in Spain until she saw ¨Brandy´s clothes¨ hanging from the clothesline!

The next day´s walk, after strolling 32K with a walking Camino bicyclist from Germany named Axel and a three-time Camino supersticion-ridden Spaniard named Jose from Vallencia, I arrived at my destination- Terridillos.  But, I stopped several kilometers before Terridillos and enjoyed two cafe con leches at a bar with the guys in order to give some time for Etsuko to catch up-- but, she never arrived.  We continued for another 8K to Terridillos.  After checking into the albergue, I settled in and was literally getting ready to step into the shower when the Hosteleria came running into the bathroom, frantically yelling ¨Brandy, Brandy, come, come!¨ I just knew it was something to do with Etsuko- sure enough, I went running outside wearing nothing but my long johns and saw a Guardia Civil car (like the National Police) parked in front of the Albergue.  I thought to myself- NO, What in the hell could a little girl from Tokyo do to get arrested in Spain???  As it turns out, she was walking along at her pace, leaned down to pick something up and tripped over a very short embankement and fell just as the Guardia Civil officers were driving by.  They stopped for her, she began crying, and saying she had to be with her friend and ¨sister¨, Brandy.  So, they apparently drove through the next two villages looking for ¨Brandy¨ at an albergue.  Wow, I have no idea how I became this young lady´s ¨sister¨ and ¨protector¨!  After checking her over for injuries and getting her set up for the next several days on the trail (via her map), Etsuko and I discussed that she needs to do the Camino her way, not mine.  That means she must go slower and less kilometers in the day.  We also discussed lightening her backpack load as she had brought way too much for such a small framed person. 

I gave Etsuko a pep talk this morning.  She cried.  We hugged.  And, I set out on the Camino, while she rested her sore legs & feet for another half-day.  She is wonderfully naive and sweet- no way to forget her!  Etsuko will email me when she gets back to Tokyo as to how her Camino went. 

Etsuko called me her Angel last night- the conversation managed to eek out that maybe my calling to the Camino was by Saint Michael.  Coincidence:  For those of you who don´t know- I wear a St. Michael pendant with ¨Strength, Bravery, Protection, Love¨ around my neck.  St. Michael is the patron saint of Police Officers and other ¨protectors¨.  I don´t know...

352 K to go till Santiago!

Photos: Me and Santiago.  Me, Jose, and Etsuko at dinner. 




 

2/18/2011 2000 hours

So, I believe I am a veteran Camino  Peregrina now. This realization snuck up on me just like it did the day I figured out I had become a veteran police officer, even though I felt like I was still so naive.

I have had two days walking alone since  parting with Franziska in Burgos. My first day was snow, rain, wind, cold, mud, and 31 K to the not so bustling village of Hontanas. Just 300 meters from dropping down into the valley of the village, I stepped into a tricky little mud hole disguised as solid ground so that I would be especially presentable to any of the already arrived pilgrims. Once I arrived to the old Pilgrim Hospital-turned Albergue, I entered the dark and very cold building that felt like the epitome of energy conservation. After hollering "hola" several times with no response, finally, a French man named Daniela hobbled down the stairs advising he was also a pilgrim and that the Hosteleria would be back. Daniela then, of course, glanced at my mud-soaked right shoe and proceeded to tell me in a very pampas French manner that those were not very good walking shoes--- ughh!  I told him that I have "lots" of experience with long distance treks and that they work just fine. Daniela is apparently an "ultra" Camino guy, because he has already been to Santiago (and Finisterra) and is on his way back to St. Jean Pied de Port.

As for the remainder of the evening, I had dinner and wine with a young couple from New Zealand (Rob & Kara) who appear independently wealthy and are doing the Camino because they thought it sounded fun. But, they are staying several nights in various towns along the way, in hotels, and generally just taking the Camino their own way.

Another woman came into the Albergue last night. I was the only one there at the time. I heard the "hola" holler just like I had done, so I went to help. She was standing there, very fragile, wet, and appeared like she was about to break down crying right before me. Her name is Etsuko and she came from Tokyo for her Camino. She started in Burgos, so this was her first day. I recognized what I was seeing in her as something familiar to what I felt two weeks earlier when I started my Camino. But, I am stronger now, I have my own Camino rhythm, I have clarity of vision.

I traveled to Itero de la Vega today; only 21 K. I made it in a swift 4.5 hours, checked into the albergue, hand-washed my clothes, and set out for a walk to the Super Mercado (market) to replenish some items. Just around the corner I observed Etsuko frantically asking a villager where the albergue was located. She turned and recognized me from the night before and her face lit up. She ran 50 meters, threw her arms around me and, with a giant smile, exclaimed something in Japanese. I pointed her in the direction of the albergue. Afterward, we found an English/Japanese translator website where we sat and got to know each other a bit. She is calling me her "teacher". I told her that, on the Camino, she is her own "teacher".

Photos: my muddy shoes, and a photo of Etsuko

P.S. Blisters are pretty much all healed up, legs and feet have no injuries and, physically, all is well.

2215 hrs 2/16/2011

It's past 2200 hrs here in Burgos, Castile y Leon (Spain) and I'm apparently a rebel because its supposed to be lights out at the Albergue de Peregrinos, but I'm writing my blog post.  It's okay, though, because I still hear whispers from the edgy French pilgrim couple next door and the set of five Spanish boys down the hall. 

Over the last couple of days the skies have given Franzcesca and I incredible fits of rain, wind, snow, cold, and mud at our feet.  We were fortunate enough to finish yesterday with only a 16.5K walk over steep hills and heavy rain in a wonderfully remodeled private albergue in Ages. We relaxed about our room- the only two in the whole place, from 1:30 pm to 7:00 pm when they prepared our pilgrim's menu in the dining room.  Aside from the blood sausage that was part of the first course, the entire meal was filling and so welcoming. The owner, a wonderful motherly type, was so gracious- she  even poured, and shared with us, an orange liqueur shot in a miniature pie-type crust---ummmm! I got two tries at it, because I took the first as a "shot" and apparently I was only supposed to drink a little bit and then put the entire liqueur filled crust in my mouth.

As for our walk today from Ages to beautiful Burgos...(see photos for a bit of the experience).  SNOW, RAIN, MUD, really badly marked directions into Gamonal (suburb of Burgos)-- but we made it to the Albergue in Burgos at 1:15 pm- that's 21K in less than 5 hours! The problem is that the Albergue didn't open until 2:00 pm.

After waiting for the albergue doors to open, hot showers and a fresh set of clothing, we set out into Burgos for mine and Franzcesca's last Camino night as walking partners. We visited a monastery and went along on a Spanish-only tour (where we remarked "that's interesting" to one another, alot because we only understood about every hundredth word). Then, we went to the Cathedral of Burgos-- an amazing tour of religion, spirituality, art, architecture and culture! We finished the night with a botella y vino and some tapas at a local bar and a great pre-intoxicated photo of us at our table.  The time spent with Franzcesca has been a friendship in the making!! So thankful.

As for the evening- Dustin and I finally got a Skype call to happen and it was great to see his face & hear his voice.  I also got to see and talk to Hailey, my little girl (dog for those of you who don't know)- she responded to the computer wondering where mom's voice was coming from. Boy, do I miss them all.

Good-bye and best wishes to my new friend, Franzcesca. She has about 31 days left on the Camino; all the way to Finnisterra (the end of the world).

2130 hrs Valentine's Day 2011

I have been walking with Franzcensca for two days now. We seem to have established a really great rapport with each other, as well as an equaled pacing partner. We like to walk about the same distances each day and can communicate with each other. Neither of us speak or "entiende" Spanish very well, but between the two of us, we navigate just fine.

Yesterday, we walked to (hmmm, let me think because I can't remember- all the days are running together now) Granon in Rioja (like a State). We arrived at the albergue which was located at the back, very dark and dreary entrance to a 500 year old church. We, first, read in Franzcesca's Camino guide book that we were going to have to sleep on the floor at this albergue, so half way up the dreary stairway we decided to walk around the village a bit more hoping there would be a private albergue, etc. The only other one we found wasn't gonna work because it cost 55 Euros (ridiculous). So, we made our way back toward the "creepy" albergue after bravely asking and receiving Spanish directions.  On our re-approach, Tom, one of the two hosts at the Albergue approached us and immediately spoke English, asking us where we were headed. He led us to the Albergue, explaining that it is run by volunteers and that he and one other volunteer are transitioning right now, so there are two of them to two of us.  He led us into, absolutely hands down, the best albergue on the Camino!!

They had a fireplace with a fire burning, a welcoming Idaho cabin feel, they made a wonderful dinner and breakfast, too-- as well as both hosts were from Germany, but also spoke English! How cool is that because they got to converse with Franzcesca in German and everybody spoke English with me.  The albergue had us sleeping on mats that were on the floor, however, quite comfy.  Great Albergue- Granon!

As for today, lets just say we made it to Villafranca Montes de Oca. There were high headwinds, cold weather, and to top it off, the albergue in the town we wanted to stop in was closed.

Photos are of the wonderful Hosts at the Granon albergue, and the second is of some lambs that were just born, which I'm seeing around here alot.
I will be in Burgos on Wednesday.

Photos of a typical Camino albergue

2030 hrs 2/12/11

Today was my first day to walk alone since St. Jean. I walked 29K today. I stopped when I wanted to, turned the directions I wanted to, and said "Hola" to at least 100 people today.  I also talked to myself for a little bit-- ya know i can be a pretty smart gal?

Physically, my feet are sore and still nursing blisters. I arrived in Najera at about 3:30 pm and tried to locate a private albergue (because they seem to be nicer), but no luck. I am staying at the municipal Albergue De Peregrinos for which I paid 5 Euro for a bed, hot shower, full kitchen (less the food), and several other room mates. The good thing is that I arrived much earlier than most of the others, so I got my choice of beds. There are nine pilgrims here tonight, a sharp contrast to what I've been experiencing so far at the Albergues.

There is one other female here tonight- Francesca from Germany. She speaks English and is also doing the Camino solo. We talked about walking with each other tomorrow, until maybe Burgos, since she will be taking the Camino slower than I will have to due to time constraints. She is a medical student in her last year before her residency begins, so said she had the time to do the walk now.  But, other than time she, too, does not yet know why she was called here.

Francesca seemed puzzled when I asked if anyone had seemed concerned or discouraging regarding her doing the Camino on her own, as a woman. She said that is just not the case for her-- we decided that maybe it is the cultural differences in that Germany has gotten past the gender inequalities more so than the US. I don't know the answer, but the issue continues to come up through conversation, etc.

I am posting photos of some of the common signs, objects, and symbols that guide me along the way. Sometimes my daily trek feels a bit like a really long treasure hunt game where I am readily aware of evidence of a seashell, a Camino sign, or a rustic yellow arrow sloppily painted on a rock or curbing. These are the common symbols that guide the pilgrims through the countryside and cities and villiages.

At times, there are mementos, artwork, and memorials left on display by pilgrims who have passed before me. I've seen some amazing graffiti artwork in tunnels, some touching memorials of Pilgrims who've parished on the Camino, as well as unique items like shoes hanging as if they, themselves, have given up. Today, there was about 200 meters of crosses made out of sticks lying along the ground which were hung in the openings of the chain link fence. I'm sure they'll be many more interesting items to see as I go along.

As for the secret to weight loss that I promised in yesterday's blog-- I have not weighed myself, however in just one week I am quite certain I am at least one pant size smaller. Soooo-- eat cheese, breads, chocolate, lots of red Spanish vino, and walk at least 17 miles each day to get those results.  Good luck!

2030 hrs 2/11/2011

This morning, I bid farewell to Los Arcos after receiving a quick, hand-made wire sculpture of a backpacking pilgrim that one of the workers at Albergue de Austria makes and gives as a farewell to all who stay there. I hooked it to my caribeener on the front of my pack to point the way. It is truly a cool little gift.

I arrived at the traditional end of the Basque Country, in the city of Logrono, today at about 2:30 p.m. I had been getting the feeling that Guillermo was going to decide to stay in Logrono instead of walking the promised 41 K to Navarette like he said he was going to (because he knew I was staying here).  And, sure enough, we reached the city center and he said he was too tired to move on after only 28K today (I didn't buy it- and something was strange about this situation). So I proceeded to muster up as much Spanish in order to be assertive, and told him that I am solo and will be staying elsewhere tonight. Long story short, we parted ways at the city center and I checked into a Hotel instead of an Albergue.  Wow, didn't think I'd have to "break-up" with someone on this trip! (If you think there might be more to this story, well you're correct, and remind me tell you when I get back).

Really positive note: I got to talk with my husband tonight (morning for him) on the phone. Expensive, but mucho necessary for my, sometimes, loneliness over here.

I have to say I've gotten several comments and posts referring to my Camino to Santiago being like a big vacation. It is far from that. And, I do not have the words, yet and maybe never, to be able to express what it is or will be for me. Please, take a moment to either Google the journey or click on the link I've included to the right, for further information about the journey.   Ultreia! Go beyond!

Tomorrow's blog post will give you a description of albergues, what I typically see when I'm walking, and the secret to losing weight...

I have attached a photo of my dessert tonight that I ordered all by myself- en Espanol. And, a photo of my new mini-walking partner.

Love you all and truly, thank you for your comments and support...4 weeks, 640K to go until Santiago.

Photos of Donkey and Church where I was blessed in Los Arcos

2145 hrs 2/10/11

I am sleeping with three Spanish men!

Well, not exactly, but I thought I'd get your attention. I am staying in a Los Arcos albergue tonight and there happens to be two college-age guys from Pamplona who are walking with a donkey to Santiago (Donkey is carrying their packs). I got to pet the donkey, which for those who really know me, was so cool. As well, I got to hold and pet a little dog running through a Spanish village yesterday-- totally rewarding for me and reminds me of how much I miss my four-legged babies!

I advised Guillermo that I will be continuing the Camino, solo, as of tomorrow. He has continued to try to convince me otherwise tonight through promise of various sightseeing opportunities, but I just feel that I came here as a solo "peregrina" and I need to continue as a solo.  He has taught me a lot in terms culture and language, but I feel there is a bit too much "protection" occurring from him and not allowing me to navigate and experience the Camino for myself. So, most gracious adios goes out to Mr. Guillermo starting tomorrow. (Not to mention he is walking 41 km tomorrow-- no way!).

•••Special note:  I was blessed as a Camino Pilgrim by an honest-to-goodness Roman Catholic Priest tonight.  After leaving the local bar (like a cafe in US), Guillermo just had to open the doors of a medieval church here in Los Arcos, and lo and behold, there was a Thursday night Mass beginning. I walked in, took a pew, and commenced to take part in the entire mass. Afterward, Guillermo walked to the back chambers, introduced himself and told the Priest that we were Pilgrims to Santiago-- he spoke English to me and asked me to a separate area from the front of the church and then proceeded to bless myself and Guillermo for our travels.  It was wonderful!

Another 30K adventure tomorrow...

2215 hrs 2/09/11

So, this is the deal--- it was a daunting day of walking and my feet are quite pooped and legs are swollen!

Guillermo and I walked over 31 Km (that equates to over 19 miles) today, up hills and down hills, through villiages and fields, and over an honest to goodness  Roman Empire-built road.  He was trying to talk me into walking another 6 miles (10K), and I, stubborn enough to refrain from "giving up" to my foot/leg pain, said I'd keep going.  We'll thank goodness Guillermo was also tired when we hit Lorca, so he called ahead to a private Albergue for us to stay in. This one's really more like a hotel, but there's 4 bunk beds in one room and only one bathroom. The good thing is that its "winter" pilgrim season and we're the only two here!

Last night, after posting my blog I got a remarkable lesson in taking care of my feet-- it turns out that Maribel from Cizur is the one that gave Guillermo the info on the maxipads for shoe inserts.  Aside from that, Maribel drained and treated my blisters and showed me some really great shoe tying secrets for long-distance hiking.

As a great finish to a long and tiring day, Guillermo and I did some more walking down to Jacques Super Mercado (supermarket not even the size of a bathroom in a Wal-mart). Once we arrived, the door was locked. I, being the American, would have just walked away, but, Guillermo, being the Spaniard, rang the doorbell (who'da thunk?). We'll two very cute little old Bascos came to the door and bowed to every pasta, vino, and fresh herbs-from-their-garden need that Guillermo had the language skills to ask for-- all for 4,50 Euro (that's like 7 bucks in the US-- OMG!).  We had a great pasta meal and a whole bottle if Spanish wine from Navarre (Pamplona area) and good conversation (as best as two with different languages can have with each other).

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Off to Los Arcos tomorrow.

Photo:  the highest point if my travels today (you know you've climbed a high mountain when you're standing where they put wind generators).

2145 hrs 2/8/11

I'm staying in Cizur Minor (Zizur is the Basque name) about 1.5 miles west of Pamplona at the Pilgrim's Albergue. This is by far the nicest Albergue yet, not to mention the Albergue caretaker- Maribel, speaks English (yeah!!!).

The walk went faster today because the terrain was much more flat or downhill at times. The downhill, as I've know for ages since my times running Robie Creek, is not necessarily FUN. But, the walk was less strenuous because of it.

After checking into the Albergue and throwing our miniscule amount of dirty clothing in the wash, we caught the bus back into downtown Pamplona where we breezed through just hours before. With only my flip-flops to wear (due to blisters and socks in the wash), I  walked through the antiquated and busy section of Pamplona-  up and down the Plaza de Torro where the July San Fermin festival sends hundreds of bulls through city, ate Spanish cuisine (including sardines) at a great bar on the Bull's route, got the private backroom tour of a Gothic 14th century church called San Saturnino because Guillermo chatted up the Priest, and then spent the next 1-1/2hrs trying to find the correct bus to get back to the Albergue for another failed attempt at a Skype call with my husband. (Something about Guillermo that I've decifered through my keen sense and wonderful e-translation tool is that he is a "marketeer" for "antiquities" relating to biblical times- so that's how he got us into the backroom tour at the medieval church! Cool, huh?)

- photos are of the arena where the bulls enter after "running", me at the medieval drawbridge that is still the foot entry into Pamplona, and one course of our Spanish meal made up of olive oil & sardines and carne asade with roasted peppers and red wine.

Walking to Lorca, Spain tomorrow.

2015 2/7/11

I think the Camino is already working me over. Its been a couple of really strenuous days of physical and emotional stress. The walking has resulted in sore muscles, tired feet, and some blisters to die for! As for the emotional piece, well that's something of which I'm trying to take deep breaths and keep moving forward. I miss my husband, my dogs, my home and Goldy's on weekends! Being on the Camino has made those things incredibly evident in even such a short time. It has also brought to light how important our loved ones are as well as the lives we have with them. You see things like that so clearly when your walking 20 miles a day, with little basic words said (because they can't understand me anyway, vice versa), and the Skype call you looked so forward to with your husband didn't work out.

I walked with Guillermo today, and probably will for the next several days because we seem to be on the same timeline to Santiago. His Spanish is a Godsend to help basic needs along at the store and for directions, the problem is that he and I have such a difficult time conversing in any lengthy manner. But, I'm learning several Spanish words from him and how to use menstrual pads as shoe inserts for comfort-- who'da thought of that? I've attached a photo of he and I on our Camino as well as at our very nicely put together Pilgrim dinner.

2310 hrs 2/6/11

The day was long to say the least. The trek from SJPdP to Roncesvalle is said to be the hardest of the walking. There were several places that were like strolling and others that were overwhelming. I say this with the emphasis on the latter, and mind you, I'm a tough girl! My last 3 miles were slow moving with lots of stops and counting steps in order to keep moving forward. I arrived to my destination 9 hours after beginning with breaks and lunch. I saw no one else on the trail with me, but it was beautiful and thought provoking.

A man named Guillermo from an island called Mallora, south of Spain, checked into the refugio (pictured bldg.) after I did today. He speaks Spanish only- that's a surprise! But we've gotten along really well. He has been traveling already for 21 days and has gone through the snow and very cold conditions. I was really lucky today over the Great Pyrenees that I only saw a smattering toward the very end.

I have revamped some of my stops in some towns due to some Albergues being closed during this time of year. But plan on being in Santiago on 3/7/11.

I will head out around 0800 again tomorrow for Larrasoana. 27km mostly downhill.

1145 Hrs 2/6/11

I started this morning at 0800 hrs instead of 0700 because Madame Jeanine would not allow me to leave since le Sun had not come through the fog yet. Almost right at 0800 it was like the fog lifted only enough to clear the path I would be taking and give me direction so as not to let the outside distractions convince me of doing something other than walking.

I am now stopped to have some fruit, crackers, and tea that Jeanine made for me at this beautiful secret spot just off the main road that I'm sure only the walkers know. I have 11.5km and still quite a climb ahead to Roncesvalle for the night.

0645 hours

I just got packed up again and ready to start my first day on the trail. I'm a bit jittery-don't know if it's nerves or that I just need to eat some breakfast. Either way, I'm on the move after eating some yogurt, fruit, and left over butter cookies from a vending machine in Paris.


Go Beyond!

Arrival to St. Jean Pied de Port

Arrived in St. Jean Pied de Port and walked the old stone road to #39 Pilgrim's Friends office to receive a warm welcome from two ladies who spoke only French to me in the way they speak with someone who understands their language.

I'll be taking the low road to Roncesvalles tomorrow due to bad weather on top of the old path. As far as the weather in SJPdP, it's as beautiful as the term "South of France" can be--magnificent.

The view of the Pyrenees mountains I'll be crossing in the morning is grand, to say the least. If you are walking up the old stone road to the SJPdP Refugio and turn around to view the mountain--it makes even a determined girl have second thoughts about being here. But, I am in a forward motion now- no turning back. Go Beyond!

February 4, 2011

Overall the last 48 hours have all run together. As I sit pondering the last two days here at Cafe D' Orleans on the corner of Rue Ducouedic and Avenue Du General Leclerc in Paris, I am wondering how the 17 hours of flight, the restless 2-3 hours of sketchy sleep I got on the plane to Paris, the 1-1/2 hour Parisian one-on-one tour in a vintage European car, the odd underground cemetery tour of six million Parisian bones at the Catacombes, and finally my three laps around the blocks near my hotel Sophie Germain just finding the courage to choose a place to eat because I would have to try out my miniscule French (breath) is going preface this journey.
Back on the plane tomorrow to Biarritz, France and then train to St. Jean Pied de Port.