2/18/2011 2000 hours

So, I believe I am a veteran Camino  Peregrina now. This realization snuck up on me just like it did the day I figured out I had become a veteran police officer, even though I felt like I was still so naive.

I have had two days walking alone since  parting with Franziska in Burgos. My first day was snow, rain, wind, cold, mud, and 31 K to the not so bustling village of Hontanas. Just 300 meters from dropping down into the valley of the village, I stepped into a tricky little mud hole disguised as solid ground so that I would be especially presentable to any of the already arrived pilgrims. Once I arrived to the old Pilgrim Hospital-turned Albergue, I entered the dark and very cold building that felt like the epitome of energy conservation. After hollering "hola" several times with no response, finally, a French man named Daniela hobbled down the stairs advising he was also a pilgrim and that the Hosteleria would be back. Daniela then, of course, glanced at my mud-soaked right shoe and proceeded to tell me in a very pampas French manner that those were not very good walking shoes--- ughh!  I told him that I have "lots" of experience with long distance treks and that they work just fine. Daniela is apparently an "ultra" Camino guy, because he has already been to Santiago (and Finisterra) and is on his way back to St. Jean Pied de Port.

As for the remainder of the evening, I had dinner and wine with a young couple from New Zealand (Rob & Kara) who appear independently wealthy and are doing the Camino because they thought it sounded fun. But, they are staying several nights in various towns along the way, in hotels, and generally just taking the Camino their own way.

Another woman came into the Albergue last night. I was the only one there at the time. I heard the "hola" holler just like I had done, so I went to help. She was standing there, very fragile, wet, and appeared like she was about to break down crying right before me. Her name is Etsuko and she came from Tokyo for her Camino. She started in Burgos, so this was her first day. I recognized what I was seeing in her as something familiar to what I felt two weeks earlier when I started my Camino. But, I am stronger now, I have my own Camino rhythm, I have clarity of vision.

I traveled to Itero de la Vega today; only 21 K. I made it in a swift 4.5 hours, checked into the albergue, hand-washed my clothes, and set out for a walk to the Super Mercado (market) to replenish some items. Just around the corner I observed Etsuko frantically asking a villager where the albergue was located. She turned and recognized me from the night before and her face lit up. She ran 50 meters, threw her arms around me and, with a giant smile, exclaimed something in Japanese. I pointed her in the direction of the albergue. Afterward, we found an English/Japanese translator website where we sat and got to know each other a bit. She is calling me her "teacher". I told her that, on the Camino, she is her own "teacher".

Photos: my muddy shoes, and a photo of Etsuko

P.S. Blisters are pretty much all healed up, legs and feet have no injuries and, physically, all is well.